Accomplishment

The weather this time of year has been phenomenal; I've been climbing outside twice a week!  I had a great week and I just wanted to make a quick update to recognize it and remember it later on.

On Friday last week, I led successfully my first ever 10.d, a route called "Flying Time" in Kootenai.  The reason I was so proud of getting up this climb, besides it being my first 10.d lead, was because I'd never even seen the climb before. I'd heard about it as being "up by the second buttress."  I'd had it in my head for a couple of weeks that I wanted to lead it and it just was never the right time.  Last Friday, one of my good climbing partners and mentors, Claudine, made sure that I did it.  I fell a few times making my way up,  but the falls were all clean.  For the first time, I figured out how to work a hard route.  Trying out moves and failing until I stuck them was a new process for me.

Flying Time

Desperate heel hook

It was short, maybe only 5 bolts or so, but it was pumpy, overhanging, and an absolute blast.  It was great to have Claudine there cheering me on -- she was there when I led my very first route (a 5.8!).
That day we also got on the Razorback Arete (a stout 10.c) which Claudine led, and 11th Commandment (a very stout 10.a, which I led).  Daniel, a guy I met climbing 2 weeks ago, joined us as well.

Daniel on Razorback Arete

11th Commandment

 But in other news....

Yesterday I led my first 5.11!!! A goal on my 25 year bucketlist is to 'onsight' and 11.  Well, I didn't onsight it because I've toproped the climb before, but still, it was a huge accomplishment. I led the Tempest (5.11a/b) in Kootenai.  It is a beast -- so long you need a 70 m rope to do it.  It is 14 bolts! It is a beautiful climb.  I got it in my head after Flying Time last week  that I wanted to get on the Tempest and lead it.  However, even when I toproped it previously I had been very challenged.  The start is super cruxy, and  clipping the second bolt involves a huge committing move above the safety of the first -- fall in between the two and you'll likely deck out (hit the ground) due to slack in the rope and rope stretch.  I knew that I just had to stick the first few moves, which I had done 2 weeks ago on top rope, and after I clipped the second bolt I could take a breather and work the rest of the route.

And great success! I took a number of falls and struggled quite a bit, but Daniel, my belayer, was patient. One move in the climb required the most effort I think I've ever exerted at any one point -- I drew the ability to do it from deep inside me.  It was an incredibly spiritual feeling, being able to access that effort and ability out of pure determination.   With one bolt to go, I thought to myself, holy shit, I actually am going to do this.   A few moves later and I had topped out, looking east towards the glowing Bitterroot Valley.

I had to drink beer after that climb. It had taken so much effort, concentration, thought, and mental preparation that I just needed a drink.  And what  a good beer that was.